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Il racconto di un insolito viaggio organizzato da Sahara Mon Amour che, dal 9 al 17 ottobre scorsi, ha portato un piccolo gruppo di amici ad attraversare il Marocco per giungere fino a Dakhla, nell’estremo sud del Paese, percorrendo anche le vecchie piste della Parigi-Dakar, sconosciute al turismo di massa e non prive di rischi
Testo e foto di Fabrizio Rovella
Tangeri. Carlo Taddei con la sua mitica Toyota HZJ78 camperizzata ed io con la mia KDJ95 sbarchiamo dalla nave della GNV su cui eravamo saliti a Genova. Massimo e Francesco Rizzo, padre e figlio, sono già arrivati in volo. Dopo circa un’ora siamo già tutti quattro davanti ad un tajine in città. Ormai, facendo tutti i documenti a bordo, l’uscita dalla nave e dal porto sono una pura formalità. Grande Marocco!
La parte “top” del viaggio, quella che ci porterà nel profondo sud del Paese, percorrendo integralmente l’Oued Draa da Assa fino alla foce sull’Oceano Atlantico, presenta una pista facile a livello di guida e abbastanza facile a livello di orientamento. Però è meglio non lasciare nulla al caso: in quattro abbiamo tre Garmin 276, un Navigator ed un GPS Globe, per non parlare di carte e guide iperdettagliate.
Una sveglia all’alba ci permette di arrivare al mitico, unico ed inimitabile Hotel de Paris. Sì, proprio l’omonimo di quello di Monte Carlo, solo che qui siamo a Tiznit e l’aria che si respira ti fa sentire un re, altro che 5 stelle Lusso! Nel ristorantino ci sono due camerieri che forse c’erano già quando si insediarono i primi abitanti a Tiznit, un po’ come i due vecchietti nel caffè in punta alla medina di Tunisi. Sono quei personaggi che sembra ti possano raccontare tutta la storia del loro paese nei secoli.
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Da Tiznit raggiungiamo Assa su asfalto e poi, finalmente, una sgonfiatina alle gomme, “smolliamo” un po’ gli ammortizzatori Oram e si parte, variando sempre gli equipaggi. La pista è bella sinuosa, è caduta un po’ di pioggia quindi vegetazione e pascoli sono in festa, idem i nomadi. Anche qui, come in Mauritania, dei camion cisterna portano acqua nella brusse e riempiono dei serbatoi disposti a terra in orizzontale.
Il campo serale nell’Oued Draa mette in luce le specialissime doti culinarie di Carlo che, dall’alto della sua Toyota perfettamente camperizzata, sforna manicaretti, ovviamente spazzolati dal gruppo famelico. L’arrivo alla foce del Oued Dra sull’Oceano Atlantico è emozionantissimo, e subito mi vengono in mente le parole del grande Théodore Monod che, avvistando la costa (essendo lui nato oceanografo) disse: “Quale dei due oceani mi rapirà?”.
Per fortuna di tutti noi amanti del Sahara scelse poi il padre di tutti i deserti.
Riprendiamo la marcia in direzione pieno Sud ed eccoci a Layoune, dove su asfalto raggiungiamo Smara, città resa celebre da Michel Vieuchange che, a differenza di Isabelle Eberhardt, viaggiava lui uomo vestito da donna. Smara ha perso tantissimo della Città Santa dell’Islam, però il campeggio appena fuori città ci permette di gustare il primo vero tè nel deserto, sotto una vera tenda, fatto da una vera seminomade. Peccato che, come quasi sempre accade in tutto il mondo, appena capito che siamo italiani ci sottopongono al supplizio de “L’italiano” di Cutugno, come sempre scandalizzandosi perché nessuno di noi conosce le parole.
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La notte è da inferno, con orde di zanzare fameliche che non ci fanno chiudere occhio. E meno male che dovevamo partire riposati, visto che il progetto è ripercorrere la vecchia pista della Parigi-Dakar fino a Dakhla, sulla costa, mine permettendo.
La pista è brutta e monotona per buoni tre quarti. I primi granelli di sabbia, in un piattone infinito, preannunciano un vento di sabbia sempre più forte. La frontiera mauritana è veramente ad un nonnulla. Come nei più bei miraggi, in lontananza appare un camion, che subito associo ai nomadi. Il tutto si trasforma in una splendida realtà alla vista di una vecchissima Land Rover pick up e di due tende.
Appena scesi ci offrono latte di capra, purtroppo rifiutato da tutti, ma al suono della parola magica “etei”, e alla vista di una piccola teiera smaltata, c’è un sì corale. Entriamo nella tenda e subito ci chiedono se abbiamo mangiato e ci profumano con una fantastica colonia. Puzziamo già dopo soli tre giorni di pista? Poi i nostri ospiti, stupiti e increduli per il fatto che intendiamo ripartire, senza rimanere lì per la cena e per la notte, ci regalano carne essiccata fatta a striscioline. Che la sera stessa fa la “morte sua” unita a maccheroni e sugo.
Al barrage di Dakhla le facce sono incredule quando apprendono da dove arriviamo. La parola che udiamo di più è “mine”. Poi, dopo aver visto il cruscotto di un’auto con navigatore, iPad e GPS, ci sorridono e pronunciano le due parole più sentite nei miei 27 anni di Sahara: no problem.
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